Kalalau Valley

Our third day in the trail was our day to stay and enjoy Kalalau Beach. We were still awake on Hawaii time, around 6:30, and enjoyed the morning twilight prior to the sun coming across the top of the cliffs.

We had a nice leisurely breakfast and stayed around the camp and ocean in the morning. The waves were down in size from Wednesday which made time in the ocean a little more appealing.

Our morning chore was doing laundry, so off to the waterfall we went. Even though it took much longer, it was far more enjoyable doing laundry in a waterfall, with a view of the ocean, than it is to do back home. 

We were only away for a short while but the stray/feral cat(s) that live here managed to get into our bags and tear open our garbage. It wasnt good, but thankfully our time away was short and it was a relatively easy clean up. It definitely helped us to prepare camp prior to our longer excursions.

After a quick lunch we decided to do the 2 mile Kalalau Valley hike which was so nice and freeing not to be burdened with heavy packs. Kalalau is a sacred valley to the Hawaiian people and there were some strong feelings and presence at certain places along the way. We saw giant mango trees and many terraces where the Hawaiians grew taro.

There were also the very intertwined hau trees further up the trail, essentially making a tunnel.

At the end of the trail was a tiny pool in the stream that was a great swimming hole. We weren't planning on swimming when we set off and didn't know about it being there but it was so hot and humid that we decided to strip down and go swimming anyways. We were the only ones there... That is until one of the locals came down the trail from upstream and right past us. Probably not the first people skinny dipping in the pool that he's seen.

The 3km back down was much more enjoyable after our refreshing swim. We got back to the campsite and changed into proper swimming attire and played in the waves in the ocean and they were much smaller than on Wednesday.

I still can't get over the beauty if this amazing place.

After showering off in the waterfall, we had A mashed potato and curry-rice dinner and saw another great sunset. Still interrupted by a cloud out toward the horizon, but great nonetheless. we finished off with an apple crisp for dessert before watching the waves as the stars came out and heading into our hot tent to try and fall asleep.

Arrived at Kalalau Beach

Wednesday was our second day in the trail. We got up and had a leisurely breakfast and broke camp. The powdered milk we brought turned Anne's coffee into a quasi-latte.

We began our hike with the destination of Kalalau Beach. We came out of the Hanakoa valley and down across to crawlers ledge. 

Crawlers Ledge is a short section (about 400 feet long) where you have a cliff above you to one side and a cliff down to the sea on the other, with only your narrow ledge to walk along in between the two. There was a lot of self talk and self encouragement to get across, but once we made it, it was much better than we both had thought. 

We continued along in and out of the various valleys and like the first day, were amazed at how each valley is completely different. 

Despite still being before noon and still being on the shaded side of some cliff faces, it was really hot and humid out. Some of the valleys had a sea breeze, some had a cool breeze down from the top of the mountains, and some were stifling and we tried to hurry through them as quickly as we coul. We stopped for a lunch at a little, rocky, dry stream crossing in the shade and only had a short distance further. 

About the 10 mile mark of the hike we aarrived at the Red Hill. There were Rangers down at the beach and they had evicted some of the "locals" without permits and one who was leaving recommended we head up for the best view anywhere on the hike. He wasn't wrong; it was incredible.

We saw a helicopter down below removing items from those without permits. It was a different perspective e seeing a helicopter land, add a sling and fly from above.

We arrived at about 2 and it was so nice to finally be there. Again, people were nice along the trail, always saying hello, and usually providing a piece of information about the road ahead.

We claimed a site right beside the beach with our packs, then went to the waterfall on the far end of the beach and showered off.

We got our site all set to up and organized, then went down to the beach to play in the ocean.  There is a very dangerous rip tide and we had high surf, so didn't go much past our knees on the highest waves.

After that refreshing cool-down, we made supper and watched our first sunset at the beach. Right before the sun met the horizon it hit a far away cloud which didn't allow for as spectacular of colours, but it was still a good finish to the day.

We used the last of the light to get ready for bed then watched the stars come out.

For most things in life, I've found that it's not about the destination, it's about the journey. Kalalau seems to be the exception...  It's both.

First Day on the Trail

We were up at 6:30 on Tuesday and ready to take on the trail. Again we were back to Safeway to get breakfast and lunch sandwiches, then off on the hour drive up through Hanelei Bay to the Nepali Coast to start the Kalalau Trail. The trail head parking was full, but we were at the lot nearby.

Things got off to a frantic start. In the rush to get on the trail and get going, I managed to leave my hiking boots in the trunk of the car, and after parking the car and walking to the trail head, had to walk back and get them.

Finally at 9:45 we set off onto the longest backpacking trip either of us had done. 

For the first 2 miles to the Hanakapi'ai Stream crossing, no permits are required. Anybody can hike to there and then hike up the stream to the Hanakapi'ai Falls. As our packs were close to 50lbs, it was evident that we weren't just there for the day, and we were moving slower than the day hikers. There were many people passing us commending us on our big hike and how amazing it would be to camp in such an idyllic setting. Some people wanted to chat, others took photos for us; all-in-all people on the trial were very nice. 

The first 2 miles to Hanakapi'ai stream had some amazing views back towards Ke'e beach and other great views down the Na Pali Coast. 

We got down to the Hanakapi'ai stream, took off our boots, put on our Keen's, and crossed getting up to about knee deep at the most. Most of the day hikers were not nearly as prepared and were trying to rock hop or go barefoot. We ran a trip across with our boots and another with our bags before most of them had even got across.

On the far side we stopped and had some lunch, enjoying the views of the surf, the last we were going to be at sea level until we made it to Kalalau.

 

Once we turned off the trail of the day hikers it was incredibly striking how we were all alone; no more crowds at all. There were the odd hiker or two going the other way, but the reduction in people was very enjoyable.

As we climbed up away from the coast, we started transiting across valley. It was amazing to set how every valley was different. Some lush with vegetation, some dry and thin, some windy off the ocean, some still and stifling.

Watching the surf from above was incredible.

We even saw the valley that has what we think is the opening fly into the island in Jurassic Park. It's hard to know on the trail without the movie, but we think it is.

We Made it to the 6 mile mark and to the Hanakoa campground in Hanakoa valley around 3pm. We Didn't know most of the camping etc was on the far side of the steam. We Did some exploring before setting up, a "local" gave us some good info on this site on the south side of the stream with easy access to water and not having to worry about crossing the stream first thing in the morning while setting out.

After getting all set up, we went on the half mile hike up to the Hanakoa Falls. We were told there was a pond to swim up there so we went in our swimming attire and in our Keen's. There were some sketchy portions of the trail that were slick and collapsing off the side. Thankfully we made it.

It is Incredible to be on a 400' waterfall pool and swimming. The water was quite cold so we could only last the 15 minutes or so that we had allotted before racing back down the trail before it got dark.

We made supper as it was getting quite dark, ate, and packed away for bed.

Our "local" friend informed us of the pigs that come around and that they were friendly. It was odd as we were packing up that we Could smell them but not see or hear them. They didn't seem to bother us or go though our stuff, even though you could smell them throughout the night here and there.

Getting Settled on Kauai

Monday was a good day. With the time change, and getting to sleep relatively early, we were up before 6. It had rained a bit during the night and the sky was a touch overcast.

At that hour on Kaua'i not much was open, so we went to McDonald's for breakfast. I always like to try something new that isn't available back home, and I was in luck. Here they had Taro Pie. It's like an apple pie, but with a filling made from taro root, a plant the Hawaiians have grown for centuries. 

 

And it's purple... 

After breakfast we went shopping at Safeway to get all the food and other items we didn't bring or didn't have space to bring with us on the flights. After about an hour there we were ready to see a bit more of Hawaii. Lihue is the industrial and administrative town on Kaua'i, so there are less touristy places. However we stopped at Kalapaki Beach on one end of Nawiliwili Bay and it was great to be down by the ocean.

We also wend up to the Lydgate Beach in Wailua to have some more beach time in the sun.

We went up towards Wailua Falls, but it was super busy so didn't do much more than take a quick peek. 

We were looking for sushi for lunch and came away empty handed, but had some at Safeway and it was much better than at home. 

After a late lunch we got our backpacks all set up for the hike, which took much longer than we anticipated. Our packs were also heavier than anticipated, Anne's just over 40lbs, and mine almost 50lbs.

For dinner, we drove down to Po'ipu to meet up with the Skinners who are storing our bags while we are on the hike. We had dinner, then headed back to Lihue to get a good night's sleep. 

Arriving in Hawaii

On Sunday, our flight from Calgary to Vancouver was fairly uneventful, a little bumpy landing, but nothing extraordinary. Our luggage was checked through, but we still had to clear security prior to customs. We grabbed some take-away food for the plane ride, then boarded and departed. The flight time was a whole hour faster as good winds decreased our flight time from 6:30 to 5:30. We arrived into the little airport in Lihue, Kaua'i, got our bags, rental car, and were at the hotel by 9:00.  We are in a nice little hotel close to the airport, but not too close.

With the 4 hour time difference from home, it felt a little bit late, but we went for a little walk in the warm, humid air before heading to bed.

Departing

Well, Anne and I are all packed and at the airport. We managed to get all of our hiking gear, and camping gear, and beach gear into two checked and two carry-on pieces. Now it's flying from Calgary to Vancouver, and on to Kauai, Hawaii.